Jasper Hill “Georgia’s Paddock” Riesling 2008

by Alex Russell on Sep.04, 2009, under VIC Whites

jasperrieslingI’ve always been a fan of Jasper Hill.  The Laughtons were early producers in the Heathcote region, originally with two vineyards, Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock, named after their kids.  Emily’s is mostly Shiraz with a bit of Cabernet Franc while Georgia’s is Shiraz, Riesling and even a bit of Nebbiolo.  These days Cornella’s Vineyard has joined the mix, with a Grenache first produced in 2004.  They produce bugger all wine, only a few thousand cases, and the wines aren’t cheap.  Emily’s Shiraz/Cab Franc (French oak) will set you back over $100 while Georgia’s Shiraz (American oak) is around $80.  The Georgia’s Riesling is about $35-40, so not cheap for a Riesling either.  All vineyards are treating according to organic/biodynamic principles, with minimal winemaker/viticulturalist intervention (including not using Phylloxera-resistant root stock, which is an interesting move).  Their philosophy is that the wines are natural products and their intervention should be minimal.

The reds are particularly difficult to get.  These days, their daughter Emily is making wine with the family… keep an eye out for Occam’s Razor (I will upload my review of that wine soon).  All of the reds are quite typical of Heathcote, quite concentrated and brooding flavours, needing time to settle.

So how is the Riesling?  Well, there’s no missing that it’s a Riesling, with a lovely limey citrus nose, but without the piercing acidity of Clare.  There’s almost something a little creamy to it, with a pleasing viscosity on the palate and a mouthwatering finish without that zesty acid, although it’s certainly evident.  So, if you’re after something that isn’t going to cause reflux all night, then perhaps this is the way to go.  With the complexity on the palate, you might want to put it with food… drinking it by itself might fill you up! 92 points


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