Aussie Wines!

At the moment, I’m on a bit of a hunt through some cool climate Shiraz from various regions, not just from Australia.  Castagna is based just outside of Beechworth, Victoria.  Their claim to fame is their sparkling Shiraz, also called the Genesis.  The sparkling is made in very small quantity and you can only order 3 bottles at a time.  This is the non-sparkling version.

Something I’ve noticed recently in the popular styles of Shiraz is that consumers want to be bowled over… they want the high alcohol, really full bodied, fruit driven wines that drink well when young (and I’ll admit that I’m partial to that too – look at my other reviews).  But there’s certainly a place for the more elegant styles from cooler climates.  The wines that are more about structure than they are about being a fruit bomb.  This is one of those wines.

The 2006 has a dash of Viognier in it to bring the fruit flavours out a little bit and reduce the spiciness of the wine.  It’s a great example of a cooler climate Shiraz and it will pick up rave reviews.  It drinks well now after some time in the decanter (an hour here), but it will certainly benefit from some time in the cellar.  However, don’t just rush out and buy it expecting the world’s greatest Shiraz.  It’s a bloody good wine, but if you normally drink a lot of Barossa/Clare/McLaren wines, then you’ll have to be aware that this is a very different, mellow style.  Once you understand that, then this wine will impress the pants off you.

So, there are some quite rich odours that bounce up your nose… richer plum, dark cherry and some evidence of very well-integrated oak.  The tannins are present but absolutely seamless in the wine, so you’ve got structure to age if you want, but that doesn’t mean you’ll get a mouth-drying finish if you drink it young.  The acids are quite mouthwatering. 95 points.

This is arguably the best Beechworth Shiraz around and is certainly one of the best out of Victoria.  Don’t just rush out to buy it though, make sure you understand what you’re getting yourself into.  And please please please decant it.

The wines are made biodynamically and there is also an interesting discussion on closures (scorew cap, cork, etc) at http://www.castagna.com.au/ (look at the page about the wines).  And join the newsletter while you’re there.

You have to love people with a sense of humour.  I’d been hearing a lot about the Lethbridge wines from one of my sales reps (James – genuinely nice bloke) and hadn’t had a chance to try any of them, so when I saw this I picked it up for around $27ish.

They make quite a few wines, including the Ménage range (eg the Pinot is called Ménage a Noir… cute).  This is the Shiraz, which is also known as Syrah just about everywhere else in the wine world apart from Australia.  Sourced from Geelong, it’s not a bad little drop.

It’s surprising that it’s 14.5% alcohol because it almost tastes cool in your mouth, similar to the feeling you get when you have a mint, with a nice freshness but without the minty taste.

Deep inky colour. You’ll find a lifted, floral nose that is very fresh and attractive. On the tongue, it’s got some quite intense very dark berry fruits with a touch of tar and perhaps some licorice. Good value, easy drinking, but you need to give it just a little bit of time to open up, so a quick decanting will help. For 14.5%, it certainly doesn’t feel hot in the mouth. There’s a slight, drying tannin to the finish, but it’s nothing to worry about.

All in all, it’s a good wine that is easy to drink and decent value. 89 points

Bendigo is in Central Victoria, about 150 k’s North of Melbourne. Originally a scene of the Australian Gold Rush days, it’s now proving to be a pretty decent area for wine too. It’s mostly famous for the reds of the region, especially Shiraz that can be quite intense.

Balgownie Estate was established in 1969 and was one of the first in the region. The first Shiraz was made in 1972. I picked this one up for $35 and am quite impressed with the value for money.

It’s a deep red in colour, still with a purple edge. That purple colour often indicates a youthful wine that may not be ready to drink yet, but that’s not the case here.

On the nose you’ll find rich red berry fruit, fairly intense without being overpowering and just a touch of spice. The use of oak is quite restrained, so you won’t find a load of vanilla there.

In the mouth, it’s pleasant and about as refreshing as a red wine can be… the 14% alcohol is very well handled and really doesn’t stand out at all. You may also find a flavour in there that reminds you of licorice. The wine is well balanced with just a dash of drying tannin on the back, but literally just a dash, not much at all. There’s a slightly sweeter finish that you’d expect too, but it’s a good thing. I quite like it and I think it’s a great Shiraz for those who don’t want a huge Barossa number or for those who are drinking Shiraz with someone who doesn’t want a hugely oaked or intensely peppered Shiraz. Drink now if you like, but you can get a few more years out of it… although it doesn’t need it. 91 points

Scotchman’s Hill was established in 1982 on the Bellarine Peninsula. Don’t know where that is? Have a look at the map below. This bay is known as Port Phillip Bay, with Melbourne on the northern shore. The land on the west is the Bellarine Peninsula, including Geeling, while the land on the east is known as the Mornington Peninsula (also famous for wine).

This region of the wine world is known for Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay in particular, although some Shiraz is also starting to show up that is of fantastic quality too, although being a cool climate region, the accentuated pepper of these wines isn’t to everyone’s taste. However, some of them are doing really well on the show circuit.

Famous wineries in this area include Paringa Estate, By Farr, Farr Rising, Stonier, Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate, Carlei and Prancing Horse, Moorooduc, Yabby Lake, Lethbridge and Clyde Park, amongst many others. Scotchman’s Hill is also a very recognised label, making top notch wines such as the single vineyard Sutton’s Vineyard Chardonnay and Norfolk Vineyard Pinot Noir, going for about $75ish.

After the single vineyard wines, you’ll find the Cornelius wines, then the Scotchman’s Hill wines (such as this one, for about $37), then the Swan Bay label, and finally The Hill wines. They’re all quite decent and you shouldn’t hesitate to try any of them.

So, this Pinot… it certainly has some vibrancy and some great structure to it, with a lively acid and unmistakable Pinot characters of cherry, spice and perhaps a bit of lighter plum flavours… the winery even suggests beetroot, but I don’t think that’s the best selling point for a wine that you’ll ever hear. There’s a certain earthiness to it, without going over the top. Defintely a decent wine and worth drinking, although it might need another year to let the acid die down a bit to make it much more approachable. All in all, a great drop to put with a dish with a lot of flavour… listen to something lively while drinking it, it’ll certainly get your tastebuds going. 91 points.